STATEN LANT

Travel Diary of Jacob Le Maire and Schouten Wilhem, January 1616:

"Very early in the morning we saw land to the right at a mile distance, going southeast. We sounded and had 40 fathoms, with southwind along the coast of this mountainous land covered with snow. After noon, we saw land to the east which was a mountainous and broken land.These lands would be far about 8 miles one from the other.

Around noon the currents were large. We were in 54 degrees, 46 minutes. After noon, we found northwind that carried us to the strait. The wind dropped in the afternoon and this evening we were taken by the current and saw many penguins and whales.We were now close to the land recently discovered on the East. High and broken, apparently running southeastwards. We gave it the name "Statelant", in our language "Land of the States..."

With this vision of a rugged land elongated dutch sailors became the first men to discover the location of the island. Its initial name was due to the mistaken belief that it was a peninsula of Terra Australis. The Staten word referred to the 7 provinces of the Netherlands, which at that time were fighting for their independence. Years later, in 1643, Hendrick Brouwer circumnavigated Statenlant, noting that it was in fact an island and not a part of the continent. Thus, The Staten Island, a small bastion of rock of 65 miles long and a max. width of 16 kms., battered by waves and Antartic winds appeared in the future maritime cartography, separated from the island of Tierra del Fuego by the Strait of Le Maire.

George anson, a British commander, wrote in 1790: "It`s a horror territory, with peaks of prodigious height and terrifying precipices, it is difficult to imagine anything more savage and gloomy."

The dramatic description of Anson is due in large part to the rugged geography of the island. Its 530 square miles(including isla Año Nuevo(New Year Island) and Dampier and Menzies Islands, are comprised of twp mountain ranges that cross the island from end to end, with deep valleys, bogs, lakes, fjords, bays and cliffs that fall to the sea. Walking on the island is difficult.Everything around seems to be made of solid rock and the wild vegetation and the tall silhouettes of the mountains seem to close on the observer as walls.

These conditions and the isolation of its location, made this island a perfect fortness at sea among the mist. And indeed, over time, that was exactly what became




7 abr. 2010

OBJECTIVES OF THE EXPEDITION

· In kayak we will perform a self supported navigation and complete circumnavigation of the Isla de los Estados starting from the Great Island of Tierra del Fuego.

· We will perform an ecological and environmental survey of the coasts, detecting amount and type of garbage, an exclusive opportunity when traveling by kayak. All the information will be recorded on a map marking its geographic location using a satellite system. Data collected will be available to the State Government and the general public as well.

· We will take a photographic and audiovisual record of the island to spread the knowledge of this area in Argentina and the world. This information will be available to the State Agency in control of protected natural areas. All material collected will be also available to any institution interested in its dissemination for both education and tourism in our State. We believe that through learning every human being can be aware of their responsibility in taking care of the fragile ecosystem.

· We will pay tribute to marine Luis Piedrabuena, through a plaque of recognition. This man has been recognized as a defender of the sovereignty of Argentina in the southern seas, being closely linked to the argentine presence in Isla de los Estados which was declared by article N° 54 of Provincial Constitution :


“Ecological, Historical and Tourism Provincial Reserve.”

ISLA DE LOS ESTADOS


Isla de los Estados is part of the province of Tierra del Fuego, Antarctica and South Atlantic Islands. Only 38kms separate the island from the Eastern tip of the Big Island of Tierra del Fuego. These are the few miles that make up the dreaded Strait of Le Maire which apparently has its origin in the same glacial age as the Strait of Magellan.
Its waters with giant swirls of 20 or 30 m in diameter and waves that give the impression of a sea boiling with water fountains that rise vertically to collapse suddenly. Showers with poor visibility, in a extremely cold region, for those few miles can become the worst nightmare for every sailor, regardless of their craft.
It is located between parallels 54° 34´- 55° 10´ S and the meridian 63° 40´- 65° 03´W approx. Its length is of approx. 63 kms. in a WSW-ENE direction. Its width is variable, with a minimum of approx. 500 mts. in the isthmus between Port Cook and Vancouver Port. Its mountainous terrain is the eastern end of the fueguian mountain range and presents sharp and craggy peaks reaching 823mts. high in the Bove mountains and maintain their summits covered with snow most of the year. It also presents a very irregular and rugged coastline deeply cut by numerous bays which have a glacial origin and are home to numerous fjords( the only place in Argentina where they were found).The long and narrow valleys have greater development on the north side of the island. The northern coasts have long stretches of cliffs of 20 to 50 m. high. The coasts of south flank are high and jagged cliffs, the sea is deep in the vicinity of the coast. There are only sandy beaches in some entries in the minors of Brent Bay. The climate is oceanic, extremely humid, with rainfall close to 2000mm. per year. The predominant winds are from NW and SW with an average of 16.5 knots, but changing from calm to gusts exceeding 40 knots can be sudden. The average intensity can be defined as “strong”, being this the only place in Argentina with that average. Thus the thermal sensation varies between “moderate cold” and “intense cold”. The winds are a major factor shaping the landscape and conditioning human activities.
The predominant vegetation is the evergreen forest, consisting of a combination of “guindos” (notofagus betuloides) and “canelos” ( drymis winterii), accompanied by a dense undergrowth of ferns, lichens and mosses that give a lush appearance. Its coastline is known for dense marine forests of brown algae.
Other important plant communities are peat bogs and coastal grassland of “tussok” (Poa flabellata) which occupied considerable extensions in the reserve. These plant communities are absent in the Argentine continental territory and are rare in the extreme south-east of the island of Tierra del Fuego.



2.2 Protected Areas

Article 1°.- To declare “Area of Los Estados” to the first unit of ocean conservation in our country, the so-called Isla de los Estados and adjacent islets, according to National Decree N° 104.169/7
Articulo 2°.- To determine “ Area of Natural Monument or Sanctuary” to those exclusively reserved to access scientific and under strict control, as a Scientific Detachment Base.
Articulo 3°.- To declare “Area of Natural Reserve” with limited human access to those with use for the scientific and tourism on the island.

The coastal avifauna is one of the most important attributes of the reserve. There are large colonies of yellow penacho penguin (Eudyptes chrysochome chrysochome), which constitute 26% of the global population of this subspecies included as vulnerable in the Red Book of the World Union for Nature Conservation (IUCN) and Magellanic penguin
( Spheniscus magellanicus). Among the birds forming colonies are the southern giant petrel (Macronectes giganteus) is also included as vulnerable by IUCN, and black-necked cormoran (Phalacrocórax magellanicus). Among other species of limited distribution in the extreme south of the country and habitat limited to the coasts are the southern carancho (Phalcoboenus australis),the antartic remolinera (Cinclodes antarcticus) and the coastal cauquen (Chloephaga hybrida).

The two hairs sea lion communities (Arctocephalus australis) in the Isla de los Estados are, except those of Malvinas Islands, the most important in Argentina. There is also the one hair sea lion (Otaria flavescens), a species that suffered a significant quarrying in the past.
The southern elephant seal (Mirounga leonina) has been registered on Goffre island- New Year Islands- but it is still not known if breeding in the area.
The reserve has special value for the conservation of two endangered species of otters, the huillin (Luta cause) and chungungo (Lutra felina) currently being the only place in Argentina where both live.
As for terrestrial fauna the mouse of guindales (Abrothrix xanthorhinus llanoi), is the only native terrestrial mammal registered described as exclusive of Isla de los Estados.
Among the exotic species is the domestic goat (Capra hircus), the red deer (Cervus elaphus), the black rat (Rattus rattus), brown rat (Rattus norvegicus) and the european rabbit (Oryctolagus cuniculus).
Isla de los Estados presents a variety of historical sites associated with human settlements between the nineteenth and twentieth centuries in various sectors of its coastline, which joins a large number of shipwrecks whose stories dates back to the sailor pioneers of these seas. The names list of those who sailed their coasts and suffered is extensive and many are remembered in the naming of fjords, bays, creeks, and other geographical features of the reserve.

In 1884 was established in port San Juan de Salvamento the Sub. Prefectura (Coastal Guard) and the military penal colony and also the lighthouse was installed, which was later moved to Observatorio Island to collaborate with the international Antartic expeditions.
The only human settlement is a detachment of the Argentine Navy in Port Parry. In addition to these activities of the Navy, scientific research and development of authorized visits under a project for the restricted, regulated and controlled use of the island for tourism are the only activities permitted in the Reserve.

THE ORIGIN OF THE ISLAND

The project includes a kayak trip from Tierra del Fuego to Isla de los Estados and the subsequent circumnavigation of the island.

Isla de los Estados always held great attraction full of mystery, both for the European and for the indigenous people of the region.

“Chuanisin, Jaius o Koin Harri”... different names of the island over the years.

Isla de los Estados: Named by Willem Schouten and Jacob Le Maire in 1616.

Chuanisin: the “Land of Abundance” for Yamanas canoers.
Perhaps this was the reason why they sailed their bark canoes across the treacherous Strait of Le Maire, settling on its shores. Although according to archaeological remains, they never occupied the island for a long period of time.
What was the motivation for the Yamanas to arrive at the island using bark canoes?
Maybe they were hoping to find land with a abundant food, or most likely curiosity to see this unknown region in person.

Koin Harri: “The mountain of the Roots” for the Selk´nam people.

Jaius: the place of Origin for the Haush people. The Wizards considered it the source of their power and the cold region.
According to the sacred tradition of the Selk´nam and Haush people (native hunters on foot), two powerful shamans representing the Wind and Sea fought in the deep waters where the two great oceans collide. The Wind won the battle. For revenge, the Sea made two female powers to confront, the one who was defeated turned into a big rock and went to the bottom of the sea in the waters of the strait, for that reason they are so rough.

The Chaman who represented the Sea opened a gap and created the narrow “Sati” then put their daughters on the other side to protect them from a wizard.
The land separated from the Big Island was called “JAIUS”. The island stayed there alone, away from everyone.

Today, we are in search of THE LAND THAT WAS KEPT AWAY FROM ALL.

OUR PASSION


It is known that this activity was originated in the northern hemisphere by the Inuits, Eskimos and other peoples in those areas, however we must also recognize that our indigenous people also navigated these dangerous waters in the south.

The Yamanas crossed the dangerous Strait of Le Maire in their fragile canoes.
They called it “Chuanisin” (Place of Abundance”). Testimonies of these visits were recorded in 1982 by archaeologists and anthropologists in Crossley Bay.

Today the same connection will take place. An ancient navigation through virgin territory like thousands of years ago, the man, his craft and nature in its purest essence.

Our kayaks have evolved in material and design, however the way of sailing has not changed.

Production techniques can be refined but it is essentially the boat that gives the kayaker the sensation of having an extension of his body and not one more element to navigate, an intimate and unique form of travel on the water.

In this voyage, like hundreds and thousands of years ago, we are other Fueguians that venture out on a boat of no more than 6 meters in length, to cross the dangerous Le Maire Strait, the required route to” Chuanisin”, like our brothers Yamanas did before.

This has a strong symbolism because though being now extinct, they traveled these magnificent waters in a not very distant time in history, considering that the population was still of a few thousands in 1880.

Le Maire currents are now as strong and dangerous as they were for the Yamanas, and rocky coasts of the Isla de los Estados are just as rugged and frightening as they were for hundreds of adventurous explorers who described them in their writings with terror.

Such a treacherous and difficult territory was thought for the construction of a prison in late 1800 to confine the most dangerous prisoners, knowing that if they achieve escape had scarce resources in the barren land and deadly waters.
A recent history still in these places, and the love of a Fueguian for their land and the respect for the wild and untamed essence of his country, survives intact despite the inevitable passage of time..

MARINE LUIS PIEDRABUENA AND " THE LUISITO"


Luis Piedrabuena was born on August 24, 1833 in Carmen de Patagones.
The National Congress by law awarded him ownership of the Isla de los Estados on October 6, 1868 in recognition of his humanitarian work and sovereignty claim in the distant southern land.
After several years of work and navigation in this area he and his team survived a terrible storm in 1873 which destroyed his schooner “Espora” as a result of it crashing against the rocks.
Thanks to his adventurous spirit, with the remains of the scooner, a few tools, and hard work, he built the small cutter “Luisito” which later traveled to Punta Arenas, Chile and in the future became the aid of many shipwrecks in these fearsome seas.
After he significantly contributed to the history of this territory through years of sacrifice defending our national sovereignty in the southern sea, Piedrabuena died in Buenos Aires on August 10,1883.

STATEN LANT

Travel Diary of Jacob Le Maire and Schouten Wilhem, January 1616:

"Very early in the morning we saw land to the right at a mile distance, going southeast. We sounded and had 40 fathoms, with southwind along the coast of this mountainous land covered with snow. After noon, we saw land to the east which was a mountainous and broken land.These lands would be far about 8 miles one from the other.
Around noon the currents were large. We were in 54 degrees, 46 minutes. After noon, we found northwind that carried us to the strait. The wind dropped in the afternoon and this evening we were taken by the current and saw many penguins and whales.We were now close to the land recently discovered on the East. High and broken, apparently running southeastwards. We gave it the name "Statenlant", in our language "Land of the States..."

With this vision of a rugged land elongated dutch sailors became the first men to discover the location of the island. Its initial name was due to the mistaken belief that it was a peninsula of Terra Australis. The Staten word referred to the 7 provinces of the Netherlands, which at that time were fighting for their independence. Years later, in 1643, Hendrick Brouwer circumnavigated Statenlant, noting that it was in fact an island and not a part of the continent. Thus, The Staten Island, a small bastion of rock of 65 miles long and a max. width of 16 kms., battered by waves and Antartic winds appeared in the future maritime cartography, separated from the island of Tierra del Fuego by the Strait of Le Maire.

George Anson, a British commander, wrote in 1790: "It`s a horror territory, with peaks of prodigious height and terrifying precipices, it is difficult to imagine anything more savage and gloomy."

The dramatic description of Anson is due in large part to the rugged geography of the island. Its 530 square miles(including isla Año Nuevo(New Year Island) and Dampier and Menzies Islands, are comprised of two mountain ranges that cross the island from end to end, with deep valleys, bogs, lakes, fjords, bays and cliffs that fall to the sea. Walking on the island is difficult.Everything around seems to be made of solid rock and the wild vegetation and the tall silhouettes of the mountains seem to close on the observer as walls.

These conditions and the isolation of its location, made this island a perfect fortness at sea among the mist. And indeed, over time, that was exactly what became.

THE LIGHTHOUSE AT THE END OF THE WORLD



The Light House at the End of the World is a novel by French writer Jules Verne, but corrected by his son Michel Verne and published in the Magasin d´Education et de Recreation, Aug 15 (vol22, number 256) to December (vol 22, number 264) of 1905 and a full volume on July 29, 1905, year of Jules´death.
It was written around 1901, since the writer had several works in progress on the delivery order of their publications. It is considered one of the best novels of Verne´s literary stage.
The original version of Jules Verne Stanko was published in Montreal in 1999.

Summary of this piece:
In an uninhabited island in Patagonia where the Atlantic and Pacific oceans collide,there was a band of pirates led bt the Terrible Kongre. These are devoted to attacking ships that passed by the region.Their way of life is seriously threatened when the Argentine Government sent three marines to build and operate a lighthouse. The pirates killed two of them leaving the leader alive, Vazquez, because he managed to hide.
Brave Vazquez will then seek to survive in this remote place while looking for ways to end the wrongdoing of criminals. Later a U.S. sailor John Davis, joined Vazquez in his fight against the pirates...



The Faro del Fin del Mundo(officially known as San Juan de Salvamento Lighthouse) is in the northeast of the Staten Island, south of Argentina. It has only a height of 6 meters, but is 60m. above sea level.
It is the oldest lighthouse and the first to be built in southern waters; its construction dates back to 1884. Its equipment was the same type of light used later in Rio Negro lighthouse.The light was provided by 8 oil lamps. It was taken out of service on October 1, 1902, the day the Año Nuevo (New Year) lighthouse was lit on Observatorio Island.
The lighthouse inspired Jules Verne to write his novel The Lighthouse at the End of the World, published posthumously in 1905.
The original lighthouse remained in ruins for decades, but was recently restored respecting the original design, which is an octagonal flat house located on a rocky promontory with the lantern on its roof.

KOKATAT GORE-TEX EXPEDITION DRY SUIT



The most recognized dry suit within the expedition kayakers. Made with Gore-Tex Evolution 3.21 Oz. gives you a perfect insulation in extreme climates. The storm hood gives a perfect shelter against rain and wind. Pockets on both sleeves and chest. Front closures, double tunnel, and reinforcement in knees and drop seat.

Incorporating feedback from many expeditions, new features have been added such as a second sleeve pocket for more carrying capacity, “cummerbund” waistband for a more secure and comfortable fit, and mesh drains in the cuffs and chest pocket found on our popular Meridian dry suits. A soft, stowable GORE-TEX® Paclite® Shell hood is more breathable and offers an excellent fit without compromising durability. All adjustments can be made with one hand- even when wet and cold. Women’s Expedition suits come with drop seat zipper in place of front relief zipper.

NOMAD





This innovative lightweight paddling boot offers the paddler a full-coverage boot that provides the necessary protection while launching your boat. Perfect for touring and canoeing, the Nomad has an adjustable volume 3mm doublelined neoprene lower shoe with the same covered lacing system featured on the Seeker. The waterproof/breathable gaiter on the upper part of the boot allows for more comfort in variable temperature and weather conditions. An adjustable neoprene cuff secures just below the knee. A medium thickness outsole with stiffening insert and a vulcanized rubber toe cap and heel counter provide extra protection and support

3 abr. 2010

PRIJON SEA KAYAKS

THE WORLD´S BEST PLASTIC KAYAKS

Proceeds from the unique system of air injection molded, it is possible to use a thicker plastic and viscous than that used in rotation molded kayaks. This yields a stronger kayak, rigid and durable, which competes in performance and durability with kayaks and carbon fiber laminates, at a fraction of the price.

The first kayak Prijon of this type was built in 1983 and is still afloat, being paddled leisurely for its owner.

KAYAKS EQUIPMENT

The equipment for sea kayaks or cruise is designed for comfort and efficiency over long distances. Large range of adjustment provide a perfect fit in the kayak. Hatches, lifelines (rope around the deck of the kayak) and networks provide transport to cover everything you need in big expeditions.

Besides the bow and stern hatches make the kayak is unsinkable

Lifeline which also serves to tie the equipments of the deck. Mooring and towing lines. The foam sheet provide added stiffness to the hull of the kayak. Networks bow and stern deck that allow little things necessary to hand. Pre-installation of rudder allowing optional rudder mount in minutes.

FLEX SYSTEM 4



Optimal use of space and weight distribution:
As you can see in this picture you can stow your kayak properly distributing the weight in both hatches
fore and aft and on deck and taking advantage of the gap between the backrest and hatch. Always place the heaviest along the bottom of your kayak for more stability.


Hatches fore and aft.

Double neoprene and plastic cap to provide a perfect seal.

Wide mouth for easy loading.
Neoprene cover to prevent entry of water.
Plastic cover to prevent external shocks.


FLEX SYSTEM 4



Four possible regulations for a perfect fit. Seat and back upholstered in series to provide great comfort and they are adjustable even while sitting in your kayak. His sleeves prevent sweating in summer and insulating the cold in winter.

1) The position of the footrest to the rudder pedals can be adjusted to the length of your legs.

2) Legguards padded and adjustable for a perfect position of the knees and have your kayak and better management of slopes and canting.

3) Release the two side screws you can adjust the seating position about 10 cm.

4) a sling subject to a gag, to adjust the backrest position when seated in your kayak.

HATCH PRIJON DECK BOX


Many of our kayaks are equipped with the hatch sealed with round cover for small hand-carried items.

Hochleistungsthermoplastic: High Performance Polyethylene



Prijon kayaks are constructed with high-performance polyethylene or HTP. HTP molecule is ten times larger, with 30% higher longitudinal stiffness and 25% more torsional rigidity than a kayak rotomolded. This same material is used in other products such as ski racing or industrial applications where hardness and durability of the material are important.

The length of the molecule of HTP combined with the pressure of our molding blown process produces a very dense plastic and some very strong bonds between each molecule. As a result, Prijon kayaks are the most solid, rigid and durable in the world.

The molding process is controlled by computer through a specialized program that controls the temperature, the flow of material, water and air pressure, according to the specific requirements of the design of kayaks. The HTP material emerges from a molder to 20 feet off the ground, from a pipe with a thickness and long close to the kayak. The mold is closed around the tube and a loud bang is heard as the air is injected at 145 psi (pounds per square inch), this pressure causes the HTP assume the shape of the mold. After it cools, the mold is removed and a new kayak Prijon emerge, ready for final trim and equipment.

15 mar. 2010

SATELLITE COMMUNICATION


The Expedition will have a satellite link through the Motorola 9505, provided by our regional communications leader " Comunicaciones Fueguinas". This telephone will be our link to maintain contact with the Armada Argentina (Argentine Navy) for daily position reports, news concerning the different navigation waypoints.
The information will be forwarded to Rio Grande and later posted on the Ekipo blog.Also by this means we will be informed of weather reports for this island and other news.